by Mike Favila, Reporter
Jiro Dreams Of Sushi is centered around Jiro Ono, arguably one of the greatest sushi chefs EVER. Even at 85, he is still working and perfecting his craft, crafting the best sushi out of the finest ingredients. I’d seen the segment from Bourdain’s No Reservations about Jiro’s place in Tokyo and wondered if he was just fawning for the camera, or if there was really any substance behind the orgasmic eye rolls. Since I can’t quite travel to Japan in time for this review, I’ll just have to make my verdict based on the DVD.
I have to admit, the first time I ever had sushi was not in Tokyo, where Jiro Dreams Of Sushi is set, but here in Virginia, at a random sushi buffet. Only after visiting Morimoto’s restaurant in Philadelphia did I finally understand why raw fish could invoke such reverie. In Jiro Dreams Of Sushi, David Gelb has lovingly assembled a portrait of a surprisingly uncomplicated artist. His small 10 seat restaurant takes reservations months in advance. The price starts at 30,000 yen (approximately $382 USD as of this writing). There are no appetizers, no extra drinks, just 20 or so pieces of world destroying sushi.
Leaving home at the age of 9, Jiro worked tirelessly to become the success that his alcoholic father could not be. The film also spends a few chapters decoding the relationship between Jiro and his two sons, who he has groomed to take over. Younger son Takashi runs the second restaurant, although it holds ‘only’ two Michelin stars compared to the originals’ three. The oldest son Yoshikazu is the eventual successor to Jiro, but even at 51 is stuck at second banana, until his father finally decides to retire or is physically unable to make sushi anymore. As an apprentice noted, both sons will always be perpetually in the shadow of the father.
While watching the film, I was really struck by the parallels that between sushi making and other forms of artistic commerce, like music or film. To make any of these endeavors happen, you need teamwork, dedication, natural talent and repetition. It was almost like watching a biography of Bill Gates, if he was obsessed with octopus. Jiro comes off as very earnest about his craft, instead of being pretentious like many TV food personalities these days. He’s very careful to share the credit. Like a good director, he trusts his team to find the best ingredients, develop relationships with the most hardcore vendors, cook the rice and marinate the tuna, and even….give the octopus a backrub for 20 minutes. Really. It tastes better that way!
Special Features
Usually a documentary has some pretty dry stuff, but the stuff presented here really helped paint a picture.
Deleted Scenes – This expanded on Jiro’s relationships with his son and more details into the business. When I was watching, I was cracking up when they were talking about how young people just want things to happen quickly, without having to work for it. Yoshikazu was saying that their business was analog in a very digital world.
Masters
Sushi Gallery – Requisite food porn. That being said, any is appreciated.
Commentary with Directory David Gelb and Editor Brandon Driscroll-Luttringer
Theatrical Trailer
Audio & Video
The DVD video was clear and very colorful. It was able to convey both the muted industrial tones of the subway station where Jiro was based and the brightness of the countryside where his relatives were based. The instrumental soundtrack, filled mostly by Philip Glass compositions, only serves to emphasize the choreography and teamwork inherent in making a sushi mecca run smoothly. The dialogue was clear, at least when the participants weren’t mumbling on purpose.
Overall
In contrast to all the food porn that the media is churning out these days, Jiro Dreams Of Sushi is great viewing because Gelb presents everything very plainly and matter of fact. That seems almost backwards, but it kinda lets the story breathe a little better instead of sensationalizing the food. Even if the meal only lasts 20 minutes, there’s still a very basic stillness that Jiro is trying to convey to his eaters. Jiro Dreams Of Sushi let me feel that quiet for at least a little bit while watching. For that, I consider it a great success.
ComicsOnline.com Rating: 
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